Man and Woman Holding Hands in 17th Century Dress

journal article

Women's Fashions and Politics in Seventeenth-Century Spain: The Rise and Fall of the Guardainfante

Renaissance Quarterly

Vol. 68, No. 1 (Spring 2015)

, pp. 133-186 (54 pages)

Published By: Cambridge University Press

Renaissance Quarterly
https://doi.org/10.1086/681310

https://www. jstor .org/stable/10.1086/681310

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Abstract

Women's clothes were at the center of political debate in the Spain of Philip IV (r. 1621–65), and no garment inspired more controversy than the wide-hipped farthingale, or hoopskirt, known as the guardainfante. Considered scandalous with its reputation for hiding illicit pregnancies, the guardainfante was banned in 1639. Nonetheless, the guardainfante became more popular than ever and turned into an enduring icon of Golden Age Spain during the reign of Philip's second queen, Mariana of Austria (1649–65). Despite the guardainfante's high level of visibility, most notably in court portraits by Diego Velázquez, very little is known about the historical experiences of the women who wore it. This article demonstrates that real women really did wear the guardainfante in a variety of contexts outside of portraiture and the theater. In Madrid and in cities throughout the Spanish empire, women of different stations and convictions participated in the political culture of their times by making, disseminating, and debating this controversial garment.

Journal Information

Renaissance Quarterly is the leading American journal of Renaissance studies, encouraging connections between different scholarly approaches to bring together material spanning the period from 1300 to 1700 in Western history. The official journal of the Renaissance Society of America, RQ presents about twenty articles and over five hundred reviews per year, engaging the following disciplines: Americas, Art and Architecture, Book History, Classical Tradition, Comparative Literature, Digital Humanities, Emblems, English Literature, French Literature, Germanic Literature, Hebraica, Hispanic Literature, History, Humanism, Islamic World, Italian Literature, Legal and Political Thought, Medicine and Science, Music, Neo-Latin Literature, Performing Arts and Theater, Philosophy, Religion, Rhetoric and Women and Gender.

Publisher Information

Cambridge University Press (www.cambridge.org) is the publishing division of the University of Cambridge, one of the world's leading research institutions and winner of 81 Nobel Prizes. Cambridge University Press is committed by its charter to disseminate knowledge as widely as possible across the globe. It publishes over 2,500 books a year for distribution in more than 200 countries. Cambridge Journals publishes over 250 peer-reviewed academic journals across a wide range of subject areas, in print and online. Many of these journals are the leading academic publications in their fields and together they form one of the most valuable and comprehensive bodies of research available today. For more information, visit http://journals.cambridge.org.

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Source: https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.1086/681310

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